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Tips for caring for your turbo engine

Lets go to the facts. 70% of cars sold in Spain are equipped with a diesel engine. Since there are no naturally aspirated diesel engines for sale, 70% of cars sold in Spain are turbocharged. In petrol cars, much equipped and supercharger systems that contribute to improved performance. Thus, over 70% of the cars that are put on the road each year employ some sort of turbocharging.
We talk about more than 700,000 new cars each year, taking as reference a million new cars a year. The problem is that it is a relatively new concept, many cars come from atmospheric and we know that the turbo require specific treatment and care. A demanding equal treatment, if you do not take good care will last far less than an atmospheric, either diesel or gasoline. And as always, lies behind a huge beating fault for the current account.

Focusing on diesel engines, much has changed from the old atmospheric. I put myself as an example: I drive a Peugeot 206 with a turbo diesel without, of those before. A block of 1.9 liter displacement and 71 hp, conceived at a time when there were no particle filters, the common-rail and Euro3 emissions regulations had not been introduced in the market. It is very reliable, but not highlighted in consumption, pleased suspended in operation and performance.
Today, an equivalent utility, as might be the Opel Corsa 1.3 CDTi, has a mechanical complexity in every way superior. Four valves per cylinder versus two, double overhead camshaft front of one, common-rail technology with piezo injectors against a linear injection pump, particulate filter and catalyst to catalyst variable geometry turbocharger versus aspirated , with corresponding intercooler ... and I can go more.

With more powerful cars are even greater differences. 10 years ago was not as common to speak of damage to the EGR valve or gas treatment systems based on urea injection on the exhaust. The modern turbocharged gasoline are somewhat simpler than the turbo, but as the turbocharger parts are exposed to much higher temperatures and at a higher speed, so that it is a very delicate part in this mechanical puzzle.
The downsizing or emissions regulations have imposed these changes, which ultimately result in cleaner air to breathe besides significantly lower fuel consumption than before, good for our pocket. Mechanically, are tighter engines: the specific power of a common turbodiesel has increased from less than 40 hp / liter to just lose 65 hp / liter. In the gasoline has gone from about 60-70 hp / liter to levels that most rub turbocharged 100 hp / liter.


Im not saying that cars are far less reliable, just that its reliability and longevity can be seriously compromised if we treat them as they should be treated. Took a long time looking at the treatment of these engines, and no wonder that fail. In most cases is unknown, we assume that they can receive the same treatment as robust engines of yesteryear and may meet before the turbo 100.000 km we have gone to heaven from the turbos.
A broken turbo, not forgetting that can cause major damage to the whole mechanical bills typically involves computing four figures labor in the workshop. Here we offer advice which you should observe carefully if you want your engine to run properly and reliably rather than faults that may pose regalaros bills vertigo.
1) When starting the car let at least one minute at idle: The turbo requires lubrication, we should expect to take some temperature, bathe the oil components. This is especially important if the car is cold. If we take the fly without waiting, the system is not lubricated and friction cause damage in areas like the turbine shaft. In the long run the piece will eventually break and touch put a new turbo.

2) Start without pressing the accelerator: a habit that could be extended to any engine, really. In the case of diesel should be avoided especially as we submit to parts of the engine to higher efforts account and we will undermine their long-term durability. Per se has the heaviest pieces and compression ratio is increased. The turbo suffer much, because you have to work hard without being lubricated at all. The same is true of other parts of the propeller. To start, always with the clutch depressed - save job starter - and without accelerating.
3) Not to sprinting or require the engine is cold: the logic is explained in the first point. If nothing else we are at changing starting at 4,000 rpm and subjected to heavy load the engine - the accelerator very thoroughly - we will damage parts of the engine that could not be fully lubricated, including the turbocharger. Cold is always advisable not to climb 2,000 rpm and stomp on the accelerator touch. If we are to make driving "agile", not only must we wait until the water is in your target zone, the oil should be heated as well, what we should shoot for at least 15 minutes.

4) Employ oil and filters always of the highest quality: if the oil is the lifeblood of our engine, turbocharger and the fluid that keeps the smooth functioning of all the mechanics, we do not use poor quality oil or take a long time our garage, however the seal is intact. Generally better quality oils are usually synthetic, which also tend to have greater durability in number of miles. As for the filters, are what keep impurities and waste oil enter our adjusted mechanically, so needless to say they must be of high quality.
Check the oil level at regular intervals is also recommended, our engine can consume oil and if we run out of liquid lubricant can result in irreversible damage to the engine. If we see that we will have to replenish low, it is advisable to carry a can in the car. This care is common to all engines, not just the turbo.

State engine oil after 50,000 km without a change. The motor GRIPO.
5) Service to the letter, even in advance: I do not look like a maniac, but the maintenance intervals of the manufacturers are half developed based on studies that we can not access. Expected to be optimal, but it is always advisable to advance a little intervals. My cars must pass every 15,000 miles, but I always usually change the oil every 10,000 km. The idea is to keep the oil in good repair, it is degraded with use. If we had more than 5,000 km danger our engine, that simple.
Some engines use long-life oil that needs to be changed at 30,000 or even 50,000 miles in some cases, but I would not expect much. Synthetic oils are more durable, but do not stand too well over time. With minerals is exactly the opposite. In any case, it is recommended that if you have not reached the mileage for review in a year, still change oil and filters. It may be somewhat expensive, but more expensive may be an internal malfunction, you can not play with the oil and its life.
If we like to give candles to the car, we usually enter the circuit or city would do much to advance further maintenance. We will not play with the juice of life of our engine.
6) Do not abuse recoveries low-end or spend laps: again, care is common to all engines, but especially affects the turbo engines. If the engine demand a lot from a very low regime - for example 1200 rpm - suffer the pieces, under high load. Eventually the combustion chambers and the cylinders suffer. In the turbo can actually saturate the EGR valve, requiring an expensive replacement. The turbos are not in their comfort zone, they can not reach the blowing pressure that makes them function properly.

Neither makes sense turbocharged stretch beyond the maximum speed and the time starts to decrease thrust. The pieces are subjected to much wear and do not get a performance advantage. Nor exploits the potential of the turbo. The savage cuts to either feel good turbo engines, especially the turbo, to have heaviest parts.
7) Allow the turbo before shutting down the engine: if we have been driving for a while and has been quick or city - with the constant stop / start - you need to rest the turbo before removing the contact. With a couple of minutes in any case is sufficient. If we shut suddenly the oil remaining inside is charred and lubrication to stop the turbine to be very hot. All heatstroke. The turbogasolina are especially susceptible since operating temperatures reaching turbos are far superior to those of diesel engines.
If we do not respect this measure turbo end offline. This may be a small inconvenience of time, but theres no waiting in all cases. For example, if we have entered the garage and we are one minute maneuvering, in which not only up-rev the engine, you can turn it off directly. If youre wondering smoothly and we have a relaxed, with half a minute of rest should be enough. Please Respect this advice, Im tired of seeing a lot of people off the engine without waiting for a second, complaining after faults and reliability.

If we follow all these tips have a reliable engine and fit for many years and miles, and they do not have to toil away a fortune in the workshop. If you know someone who has a turbo car and not respect these tips, spread knowledge and avoid suffering damage and headaches. Your car will then have no impediments to achieving many miles, always offering the best performance.